Thailand
For our
first big trip from to India to a country outside India, we decided to
venture to Thailand. This was, of course, timed to make the best use of our
limited time with my Mother, Joan, and our sister-in-law Lena. The person
of interest that served as the focus of our journey was my Grandfather Bob,
who currently lives in Bangkok. My mother has always looked for an
opportunity to visit him and see the surroundings he lives in. In addition,
we knew that Johnny and Trang Baseel were a few hours north in Chiang Mai,
just an overnight train ride away.
Although
we knew it would add to the costs of a trip substantially, we decided that
this first big extra-India trip should include all six of us. It was not
only an Olmsted adventure, it was also a great family gathering! In order
to minimize impact to the kids schedule, we selected the first big holiday
weekend we had that coincided with Grandma and Lena’s visit – Gandhi’s
Birthday weekend. This made things a bit complicated for me (since JNU
held mid term exams around this time), but it was our window of opportunity
so we took it. We made our plans about 2 months out, shopped for fares, and
hoped for the best.
Sep
27 and 28 – TO BKK and first day with Bob
photos of Bangkok, Thailand
The first
“interesting” part of our trip started with the flight to Bangkok. We ended
up having to get a flight that left at 1 AM! That was a bit rough on our
sleep patterns, since we essentially did not go to sleep the night of Wed
the 26th! We packed ourselves fairly light and had Baldev drive
us to the airport around 11 PM. We flew for the first time on Jet
Airways…and loved it! The service was great, the food was good, and the
plane was very clean! The seats were a bit close, but it was perhaps the
only downside to an otherwise smooth and comfy night trip. They even passed
out fun kits to the kids and sleep kits to the adults.
When we
arrived in the morning in Bangkok we were glad we heeded the advice of the
travel office in Delhi to travel on our Diplomatic Passports. We also have
tourist passports, but when we saw the line at customs, we were very happy
to fly through in the empty Diplomatic lane. Thailand is easy in that no
visa is required, and we literally sailed right through (with Mom and Lena’s
tourist passports in our stack too). The Suvarnabhumi Airport was quite a
sight – all squeaky clean and brand new! Grandpa Bob told us later there
were some controversies over the costs of its construction (what major
undertaking today doesn’t?), but we were impressed. The Taxi service was
turn-key easy (if a bit expensive), and we were grateful not to have to
hassle after our first night’s sleep on the airplane!
Actually
the Airport name was the first of many linguistic-cultural linkages I
noticed between Thailand and India. The airport is called Suvarnabhumi,
which refers to the golden kingdom of ancient times supposedly located in
Thailand. Bhumi is also a Hindi (Sanskrit-root) word for land. Hmmm.
Well, it’s no secret that ancient emperor Ashok of India was a convert to
Buddhism and sent Buddhist missionaries far and wide – especially to
Southeast Asia.
Once we
got on the road to the hotel we were struck at how everyone stayed in their
lane – imagine that! The laws were obviously enforced with much greater
vigor, attested by the zippy yellow police motorcycle cops that were garbed
in body-leather, snazzy helmets, and visible handguns. Amazing what results
a society gets when consequences are meted out for breaking the rules.
Still Bob says the typical forms of class-based application of the law exist
(if you are driving a Mercedes or a BMW virtually anything goes), but the
general law and order of the road was drastically different than what we
knew in India.
We made it
the Marriott Hotel and tried to contact Grandpa Bob. This is when I wish I
had a true global cell phone plan (my SIM card was useless here), but we
muddled through. Grandpa was apparently in the lobby or the coffee shop the
whole time we were at check in, but it was no big deal, soon we linked up
and had a great reunion. Especially for Mom, I think it was a great time
for us all to be together. My Grandmother Betty died before I was even
born, and Grandpa Bob (a retired airline pilot) was always a globetrotter.
Now we had four generations of the family together (again…last time was at
my brother Russell’s wedding in Salt Lake in 2005), and it was great to see
Grandpa Bob in such good health and great circumstances.
After some
great family photos in the awesome setting of the Marriott lobby, we decided
that time was a wastin’, so after going upstairs to shower and change, we
hit the town. Grandpa Bob took us on the Bangkok Metro rail on a little
tour of the town. The Metro in Bangkok was fast, clean, and cheap! It was
being used heavily, so we had to hold onto each other on our line transfer,
but it was a great way to quickly see the booming metropolis. Cranes and
construction continue to sprout up in this Asian Tiger-town, and the King
was revered everywhere. Posters and signs and the color yellow adorned
buildings everywhere – the King of Thailand is one figure universally
respected throughout the nation.
We made
our way to the end of one of the metro lines (Saphan Taksin station) to
visit the Central Pier. From the cement pier on the banks of the Chao
Phraya River, the dark brown water flowed past in a fast-moving, churning
flow. The riverboats that were hauling cargo and tourists zipped past
making the already choppy river seem to heave and slosh. It was still warm
and humid in Thailand in late September, but the river made it seem a bit
cooler and more inviting. Daniel was pleading to ride a boat, we jumped on
the Marriott shuttle boat that was headed down river to the other resort/spa
location on the opposite bank. The ride was nice (the kids began falling
asleep), and after wandering about the resort, we returned on the same
shuttle barge.
Since the
kids were wiped out we returned on the Metro and had some downtime in the
Hotel before dinner. We enjoyed the Hotel amenities (pool mostly) after
getting a nap, and we were ready to pig out. We met Bob and some of his
friends for dinner at the awesome buffet in the hotel. We met some of his
golfing buddies, but mostly we got to know two of his caddy-friends, Nong
and Clitsana. They were very pleasant and well-spoken, and we had a great
time getting to know them.
The next
morning, we pre-packed for our evening train ride and stored our bags in my
Mom’s room. She needed a few couple days with her Dad to review money and
living affairs, so she stayed in Bangkok the entire trip. We checked out of
our room, took our day packs, and headed out for a full day of Bangkok sight
seeing. First we decided to take taxis to see the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
These are the two big historical/tourist draws in Bangkok, and they did not
disappoint!
On the way
to the temple I had to take a side trip and stop at the Train station to pay
for our train tickets. This was a minor hassle since they needed to
actually see my credit card before the sale could be final. Thankfully they
spoke reasonably good English, and after a review of the itinerary they
issued our outbound and return tickets. I also got wise and purchased the 8th,
empty bunk at a reduced rate so we would have the privacy of two complete
rooms for the 7 of us. This was nice once we were underway later.
After this
sidetrack, we met up with the rest of the family and first we went to see
the temple of the emerald Buddha. It was under a little renovation work,
but it was still magnificent. The ornate style of the architecture was
amazing, as well as all the glittering gold overlay. The complex was kept
immaculately clean and the kids seemed to stay engaged despite the heat.
When we entered the royal palace area, we found the royal armory to the
delight of Z and D. There was also a cool decorations and coins museum (but
cameras were prohibited…darn). We somehow found the Haagen Dazs shop (we’re
good at sniffin’ them out) and took a break from the humidity by sipping
some coconut drinks and eating ice cream.
Then it
was on to Wat Pho. What for? To see the Golden Reclining Buddha, of
course! We walked around the grand palace compound and made our way on
foot. It looked close on the map, but we were running low on batteries by
then. But we were well rewarded when we entered Wat Pho and saw the huge
reclining figure. This massive golden statue is quite impressive, and
despite the difficulty in getting it to fit in a picture, we managed several
good shots. The kids really liked plinking coins in the metallic pots lined
up along the back wall of the temple hall. There was a fountain outside the
Buddha temple, and the kids were entertained as aunt Lena pointed out the
huge frogs in the pond.
Sep
28 Train to Chiang Mai
photos of train ride
By this
time we were due to get back, get refreshed, and get to the train station in
time to make our late afternoon run to Chiang Mai. We made our way back to
the Marriott, grabbed our bags, and hustled off in taxis to the Hua Lamphong
train station. The big station was a bit choked with diesel fumes, but we
found our train, loaded into our rooms, and bought some chips and drinks on
the platform.
The rooms
we occupied were first-class sleeper accommodations, and the rooms were
enclosed cabins that connected in pairs of rooms with two bunks each. We
occupied four adjacent rooms, and we had a good time getting settled in for
the night. The cleanliness of the rooms was not exactly what we hoped for,
but Thailand was spoiling us so far (compared to India), so it was only fair
to have another dose of reality! The toilets were a combo of western and
straddle-type, but we had seen that on an Indian train before. Ange was a
bit grossed out, but the kids thought the whole thing was great. D, B, and
A were playing train drive from the top bunks, and the Z, Lena, Ange, and I
passed the time playing card games.
Dinner
seemed a bit risky, so most of us skipped the fare provided. It was a good
thing we had a late meal before getting to the station, because we heard a
poor traveler in an adjacent room heaving his guts all evening! That
would’ve been fun…not. After getting the kids tucked into bed I felt a
second wind and decided to do the homework which I had brought (knowing a
midterm was awaiting me upon return). After a few hours of focused study I
settled into a surprisingly relaxing night, falling asleep to the swaying
motion of the railcar.
Sep
29 – 30 In Chiang Mai with Baseels
photos of Chiang Mai
We arose at
a reasonable 9 AM, cleaned up our rooms, and awaited arrival. The breakfast
that came around seemed much more appealing than dinner, and most of us
(except Ange) indulged in a good little meal of eggs and toast. The food
server came around with a bucket of orange flavored drink, and we snarfed up
that too. All told, we arrived in rested, well-fed (albeit unshowered)
condition in Chiang Mai.
Johnny
Baseel was waiting for us at the train station when we finally pulled in
(about 10 AM), and we were thrilled to both see him and Chiang Mai. The
station was nothing special, but the weather was much more temperate. He
had arranged a minibus to fit us all and we made the short trip to their
home. Chiang Mai is a wonderful little town in the middle of a beautiful
valley in the mountains of Northern Thailand. The city has the feel of a
college town, is quite clean, and is not yet “discovered” or over-run.
Johnny and Trang have a super home on a nice little lot in town. They put
us up in their kid’s rooms and graciously opened their home to let us invade
for a couple days.
After
getting a shower and taking a little break to catch up and visit, we went to
a great roadside restaurant in town. It served a mouth-watering chicken and
rice dish that we all absolutely devoured! After recharging with some cold
sodas, we made the trip up the side of the valley to see the Doi Suthep and
Wat Phrathat. This was a picturesque temple complex perched atop a large
hill overlooking the city. It had a huge dragon-lined staircase that
ascended to the summit, and at the base there was a nice marketplace with
all sorts of interesting items for sale (giant spiders under glass,
machetes, masks, and clothing of all sorts). We wandered around the temple
complex for the afternoon (complete with a “white elephant”) and descended
back to the market. Behind the market, when we went to find a restroom, we
found a large elephant inhumanely chained to a cement pad. It appeared to
be ill as it was constantly swaying and trying to free itself. It was sad
to see such a magnificent animal in such bad conditions, but it was not
typical of the rest of our experience with elephants while there.
After we
descended the hill, we went back home and got the kids ready to go out to
dinner. Johnny and Trang took us to a great riverside restaurant. There we
sampled the snake head fish (looks awful, tastes great) and had a great time
on the cool banks of the river, eating by torchlight. After dinner we
roamed the famous night bazaar. I was to say the least exhausted, but we
couldn’t help ourselves but to keep going through the vast displays of
everything to pirated DVDs to amazing woodworked items, knives, and of
course clothing. At the large food court Johnny introduced us to a new
favorite: mango and sticky-sweet rice. Awesome! The kids all ate until we
were almost sick as we watched some traditional dancers on a stage in the
market. We had a whirlwind day, but it was only to get even better the
next…
Sep
30 - Elephant Park
photos of Mae Tang Elephant Park
We arose,
fed the kids on dragonfruit (yum) and toast and headed north about 45
minutes to the Mae Tang Elephant Park. This was one of the greatest things
we have ever done as a family. The park begins with a narrated variety show
that displays various activities and games that the trainers and elephants
have learned together. There were displays of how the elephants work in
teams and alone to haul large trees or accomplish other tasks. Then they
showed various games and sports (soccer, basketball), and even one elephant
that paints pictures! As an unplanned side show, a younger elephant was
getting quite amorous with a clearly uninterested female. Despite the
efforts of a couple trainers to dissuade the romeo, he began to “propagate
the species” and they had to resort to beating him about the head with a
large stick! It was, well, memorable.
The best
part was our opportunity to go in twos on our own elephants on a jungle
safari. The lush mountain valleys we trekked through were breathtaking! We
even forded a raging river on elephant back, something that made me feel a
little nervous. I was ready to throw A toward the bank if that elephant
lost his footing in the fast current! We took turns sitting on the
elephants head (the “drivers seat”), and the kids loved buying small bunches
of bananas and feeding them to the ever-hungry elephants. They just curled
their trunks back and we gave them fruit as fast as they could move it into
their mouths! We took some truly fantastic photos, but most of all we
imprinted them in our minds and hearts.
After we
dismounted the pachyderms, they took us by ox-cart to a great riverside
restaurant where we ate a delicious lunch of Thai noodles, fruits, chicken,
and other assorted delicacies. The park experience finished with a river
run on bamboo rafts back down to the main complex. The beauty of the Thai
mountains, jungle, and wildlife were stupendous!
After the
trip back to Chiang Mai, we had to sadly collect our things and get ready
for the return to Bangkok. Knowing that we miss beef terrible in India, we
had our final meal in Chiang Mai at Mikes (“converting vegetarians
everywhere”), a burger stand and local favorite. It was a real treat to eat
big burgers and fries, just like back in the USA! We sadly made the return
to the train station, sorry we had to compress our visit in such a short
window. But Johnny and Trang really helped us make the most of our limited
time – we will always be grateful to them and value their friendship. We
hope they will come to India so we can return the favor! We are likely to
come back to Thailand again to see Grandpa Bob, so we made informal plans to
meet next year at one of the southern Thai beach resorts…gotta do it!
Sep
30-Oct 2 Overnight Train and Last 2 days in Bangkok
After a
whirlwind weekend in Chiang Mai, we enjoyed a relaxing evening and night on
the return train to Bangkok. We were all so tired that we slept like
rocks…it was nice to go to bed early and sleep in a bit the next morning.
After disembarking the train and making our way back to the hotel, we
checked back in, showered, and caught up with Gramma Joan. She had a great
weekend with Great Grandpa Bob, and they got done all they hoped to. We
spent the rest of the afternoon swimming as a family at the hotel. It was
important to have some time to just vacation, play, and not worry about
going to another temple or tourist sight. We enjoyed another great dinner
with Grandpa Bob at one of his favorite Chinese restaurants near the hotel,
so we ventured out on foot and had a great meal. We got a look at the
seedier side of Bangkok (which unfortunately is not limited to any side, but
is actually located all over in bar scenes and night clubs throughout town),
but we steered clear of them and found that Bangkok truly has something for
just about anyone.
After a
refreshing night, we arose to pack for our return flight that night. We all
went out to do some shopping and get an early lunch. I took the kids back
to the hotel where they played some more and I did more homework while Ange,
Mom, and Lena went to the large (and famous) MBK shopping center. We
arranged for a late checkout and after an early dinner at the hotel, made
the return trip to the airport and home. Jet Airways again took good care
of us and we made it back to Delhi about 10 PM.
This trip
was, despite its super-compressed schedule, a smashing success. We loved
Thailand. We loved Chiang Mai. We think the world of the Baseels. We are
eternally grateful to have family time with Great Grandpa Bob, and that all
of us were present with Grandma Joan and Aunt Lena. We will certainly come
back to Bangkok at least one more time in our Olmsted tour…who knows how
many opportunities we will have to see Grandpa Bob (he is 85!), so we will
cherish every one.
