The

Dave & Angela

McIllece Family

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Mt. Everest Trek

18 December 2008 - 5 January 2009

Overview:

From 18 December 2008 to 5 January 2009, I and my intrepid 13-year old son Z made the father-son journey of a lifetime.  We hiked to the top of the world to the Base Camp of Mount Everest in Nepal.  It was the culmination of a year of planning, physical conditioning, and equipment acquisition.  We joined good friends Richard Seipert and his two teenagers, Al Byrne, his two sons, and Al’s father Buzz to make the journey.  Special credit goes to Richard for spearheading the planning of the whole affair.  For the McIllece’s, this incredible adventure was just another example of the amazing opportunities that the Olmsted Foundation has offered us.  We decided ahead of time to carry an Olmsted Foundation Coin to the highest point of our trek and leave it on the mountain in memoriam of George and Carol Olmsted – the visionaries that made such a life changing experience possible for us.  Below is the bullet-ized summary of our trek with links to our photos (be warned, some of the details include bodily functions, etc…not refined in any way!).  Also included is a map that tracks the path we took, numbered by hike day.  We hope you enjoy following our path and seeing some of the spectacular sights we saw.  Most of all, if you get the chance, join me in congratulating my son in achieving an accomplishment that most adults would have second thoughts about undertaking.  I am as proud of him as I have ever been of anyone!

 Everest Trek Preparation – see photos

 

 Hike Day 0:  December 18^th, 2008

• Departed Delhi on time at about noon
• Arrived in Kathmandu by 2 PM
• Pampha (owner/manager of Lantang Ri Trekking company), Al, and Buzz met us at terminal – transport in large Toyota Hiace Van
• Dropped Bags at Hotel Vaishali in Thamel
• Went to Monkey temple: Swayambhunath Temple
• Dinner at good restaurant, forget the name…
• O/N at Hotel Vaishali; bought water, repacked for flight and hike

 Hike Day 1:   December 19^th, 2008 - photos

• Flew to Lukla (2840 m),
  • Flight scheduled for early departure, but fog delayed
  • tookoff about 10:00, arrived about 11:00 AM
• repacked some for trail / sherpas
• ate lunch at Khumbu Resort
• Departed Lukla at 1:30pm
• hiked down hill (and up) to Phakding (2610 m)
• arrived at 3:45 pm
• tough for Zac and I; first day, altitude adjustment mostly (but no AMS symptoms)
• Dinner at restaurant at hotel:  Tashi Tagey lodge
• Matt barfed 10+ times that night; sickness most likely from exposure during the day hike
• Most slept well – Dave woke several times, heard Matt

 Hike Day 2:  December 20^th, 2008 - photos

• Phakding (2610 m) to Namche Bazaar (3440 m)
• AM – woke (6:30)
• brushed
• repacked (Zac’s bag lightened, now using camelback)
• Taylor barfed before leaving (oh, oh)
• ate breakfast @ hotel: oatmeal & pancakes
• Dave ‘s breakfast was yum – but Matt still barfing
• left for hike at 8:15 AM
• Zac + Matt, Al/Buzz/Dave slower
• Matt struggled, got a horse
• Made it to Bengkar guest house (2905 m) by 10 AM
• at foot of Thamserku (6608 m, 21,729 ft)– pretty mountain
• hiked until noon, passed check point
• Sagharmatha National Park entrance, entered park
• Stopped past cool bridge – to Jorsalle Village
• stopped for lunch – 12:10
• Matt still ill
• Taylor doing better
• Zac still doing well
• left lunch 1:00pm
• hiked up, up, up to Namche Bazaar – arrived approx. 4 pm
• stopped along the way for oranges
• tough uphill hike!
• Dave mild headache, possible AMS symptoms? Took advil, went away
• Hotel Shangri-la, room 109
• showers 250 NRS each!  Zac, Dave, and most others hit the showers
• laundry drop off
• dinner – good! sherpa stew!

 Hike Day 3:  December 21^st, 2008 - photos

• Syangboche- Everest View Hotel
• Supposed to be ‘acclimatization day’ – little rest!
• plan to go up from Namche Bazaar, then return – for the view, short ‘picnic’
• slept in till 7:30am
• 9:00 am breakfast
• 9:30 Go, steep hike
• Great views!
  • Everest
  • Ama Dablam (dramatic)
  • Tabouche peak
  • Lhotse also, near everest
• drinks at hotel – expensive lemonade!
• picnic with yaks; thanks to Al for the summer sausage!
• phone calls – attempts! Al and Richard got through; Dave’s call failed
• Kids returned downhill fast!
• attempted foot massage (closed for season)
• bakery
• Dave – rearranged gear
• laundry receive – some sock still wet
• recharged batteries
• ate dinner, went to bed tired!

 Hike Day 4:  December 22^nd, 2008 - photos

• Namche Bazaar to Kumjung – then on to Mong La
• ate at 8 am
• left at 9 am
• climbed to ‘airport’ near Everest view hotel
• crossed runway to small stupa
• by 10:45 we were above the runway
• break time; flew kite (tried to), good pictures, good view from hilltop
• to Kumjung (3780 m) QUICK…Shishir said this was the destination??
• downhill – arrive 11;45!
• decided to press ahead – next day hard day
• went to Khumjung monastery then ate lunch from 12 to 1
• re-started hike at 1pm
• arrived at Mong La (3973 m) @ 3pm
• cut ‘hardest day’ in half
• took pics of Ama Dablam (6856 m)
• awesome!
• sunset pics
• stars- awesome (pics, not so much; didn’t know how to get camera to do ultra-long exposures!!)
• Did some long exposure pics in lodge: Matt as Buddha, Zac & Morgann as arms, fun!
• Colder night 30 degrees bedtime, 25 degrees sunrise (windchill even colder)

 Hike Day 5:  December 23^rd, 2008 - photos

• Mong La (3973 m)  to Dole (4200 m)
• up at 6:30 – morning pics w/Al, Buzz, Richard
• Richard the ‘yeti’ – uphill
• Awesome AM pics
• Breakfast 8am
• start hike 9 am
• arrived Dole (4200 m) @ 12 noon!
• FAST! but feeling good.
• lunch at 2pm
• filled water bottles, napped
• Richard and Cam climbed hill above camp
• clouds moved in, then no more pics
• Richard got some from above clouds
• cold water face/hands wash
• Zac minor burn on stove pipe – ok
• learned to play bridge – sort of
• played till dinner
• ate 6pm – sherpa stew, cheese pizza
• talked after dinner, Richard’s career, Dave’s assignment
  • Buzz’s question reminded Dave:
  • Today exactly 13 years in AF service (Dec 23) 95-08
• STARS! – Awesome, even Milky Way visible
• Taylor, Dave, talked about the North Star
• Cold night in ‘meat cellar’ rooms
• getting hot water bags for sleeping bags
• sleep 9pm
• C-O-L-D
• back door wouldn’t close!
• propped with ladder – stone, still open in morning!
• Used Pee bottle!
• Washed in AM, frozen water
• whimpering, sniffing, coughing, lots of Nose strips
• room stayed above freeze ~ 35 degrees in room; but it didn’t feel that warm!

 Hike Day 6:  December 24^th, 2008 - photos

• Dike (4200m) to Machhermo (4470 m)
• 6:30 rise, clear sinuses YUK
• COLD!
• 7:00 – Morgann’s shrieks, won’t get out of her bag!!
• Taylor actually used squatter!
• 8:00 breakfast, survivor videos; also lost, found Richard’s camera lens cap
• 9:10 on trail
  • clear, bright, warm
  • climb steep at first
  • some mild symptoms (headaches) so slowed down – kids – FAST!
  • Al gave the Pep Talk: – let’s go slow, enjoy scenes, family time, better acclimatize
• All slowed, enjoyed more
• Byrne’s, McIllece’s staged photos, cliffhangers, summiting, FUN
• ‘Merry Christmas’ w/ other trekkers along the way
• By 12, wind picked up – adding layers
• saw ‘Snapping Turtle’ mountain (Taboche or Cholatse peak?  unsure)
• clouds closed in
• Colder temps 35 degrees without chill, guess 20 degrees with chill
• BRRRR, -15 degrees, Tough last hour for the hike
• checked GoreTex
• Outer layers
• Arrived at Machhermo (4410 m)
• Yeti Lodge
• Seipert’s arrived 1^st, explored ridges, flew kite, we saw from a distance, waited for group
• ARRIVED @ 2:30 pm
• symptoms better, still a few
• Common room,
• ordered lunch
• stove HOT! (yes!)
• Yaks in the yard of our lodge
• ‘Joker Team!’ Richard, Al, Matt – hiked up valley – came back at dark
• rest stayed played bridge
• Dinner – Christmas Eve special meals: beef stew, chick n’ rice, chicken teriyaki, Richard offered grace
• dessert: raspberry crumble
• videoed family messages
• post dinner: Dave read Luke 2, Bible Christmas Story
• Slept, warmer at night, nose strips for ALL, and to all a good night…
• Used both pee bottles!

 Hike Day 7:  December 25^th, 2008 - photos

• Merry Christmas!
• Machhermo (4470m) to Gokyo (4800 m)
• Up at 6:45am
• Santa Came!
  • Zac skittles, gum
  • read our letters
  • We love you Mom!
  • stockings in common room (Thanks to Al, Reese’s PB Cups!)
• Dave washed hair with Byrnes using hot water bottle water (just ‘warm’ then)
• Started on trail by 9 am
• Beautiful start, great views
• sunshine, warm
• slower climb
• wind worse, colder
• lost sun – clouds
• great glacier river views
• mix w/lake-fed stream
• yaks and birds along the way
• Zac got too cold, slow adding layers, miserable!
• pushed ahead
• beautiful lakes
• lakes 1,2,3
  • ducks
  • moss or other type of weed under water – amazing!
  • vistas across lake 3 amazing
• Arrived 1-1:30 at Gokyo to Gokyo resort, nice accommodation
• lunch at about 3
• talked about layers
• Morgann bucket shower – efficient!
• Seipert boys & Zac washed hands, head, hair, faces with leftover hot water
• Dave used rest to wash socks and Zac underwear (COLD hands)
• wash, (agitate) wring, rinse, wring
• bagged in Ziplocs
• hang to dry on trek poles in rooms (to freeze!)
• THEN…
• report from another trekker (Australian and his Sherpa)…
• Dragnag lodges all closed!
• would require 12-14 hours climb over pass at 5170 m
• CHANGE OF PLANS
• Tomorrow no rest
• Descend to Phortse (7 hour day) back down path then…
• 27^th Phortse to Periche (or best effort climb up 400 m!)
• 28^th Periche to Labouche
• 29^th Labouche to Gorakshep
• or
• Acclim. day in Labouche
• 30^th – on – back to schedule?  we’ll see
• Ate Christmas dinner, like Christmas Eve – mountain house meals, yummy
• Zac sleeps with other 3 boys in common room
• Early departure! (-15 degrees C outside tonight)

 Hike Day 8:  December 26^th, 2008 - photos

• “The Big Downhill” – not really downhill!
• Gokyo (4800 m, 15750 ft) to Phorste 3800 m
• 7 Hour Drive!
• Left at 7:30am
• 24 degrees F left
• by lake 1 30 degrees F,
• snow started, cold windy day, SNOW
• Downhill 1^st
• icy bridge over stream… creaky bridge
• Then Heavy uphill climb – tough!
• Lunch at small lodge, (run down) name _____________
• Hobbit outhouse on cliff – COLD!
• Dried out some
• jerky, soup, chapattis
• Pushed to Phortse, arrived 4:30 pm, snowing, COLD
• many, wet, tired, tough
• I became mildly hypothermic, too much sweat!
• learned to regulate layers ONLY ONE wind breaker outer if used
• I felt VERY sick
• concerned about lungs
• talked about contingency to separate from group, descend if too ill to continue
• All OK – checked with Shishir – would use our own porter if needed
• Talked to Richard – received priesthood blessing – Zac was concerned before
• Dinner OK
• DRIED OUT ALL SOCKS – finally (and Zac’s underwear!)
• Slept well, but COLD!
• I love those Pee Bottles! YEAH!

 Hike Day 9:  December 27^th, 2008 - photos

• Left Phortse (3800 m) to Orshyo (4100 m)
• Left at 7:30
• steep climb 1^st hour
• beautiful, clear weather; sun broke over ridge and warmed us up
• wildlife spotted – 1^st lophophorous (pheasant), 2^nd Rams, ewes, mountain goats
• Himalayan Tahr
• Bunch of Yaks, up high, domesticated Yaks, Yows
• Moderate climb to Orshyo arrived at 2pm
• washed socks, hair, faces outside in yard
• filled water
• ate sunflower seeds, drank cocoa
• nice upstairs lodge
• Afternoon: played cards, dried socks, told war stories (injuries, pain, etc)
• Bedtime about 8 pm

 Hike Day 10:  December 28^th, 2008 - photos

• Orshyo (4100 m) to Dughla (4620 m)
• Up at 6 – breakfast
• Matt not well, Richard/Dave talked to Al/Matt, gave Matt priesthood blessing
• left at 7:30
• good clear skies
• some wind at our backs – light
• 25 degrees F at start
• Taylor nauseous but he “manned up”
• sun broke ridge about 8:30, warmed up some
• still wind was cold
• Paused in Periche
  • Himalayan lodge NICE
  • best outhouse in Nepal
  • nice view of stream
  • juniper leaves to cover waste and odor
• Long, slow, climb through side valley with icy, bubbling brook.
• Great views of Ama Dablam behind us
• Arrived Dughla 12:00
  • busy spot – only 1 lodge – but had rooms available
  • unpacked, ate lunch by 2pm
  • smoke bothersome to me – ventilation very poor
  • took a nap under blanket
  • Richard tried to climb hill – too cloudy
  • Reassessed plan again with Shishir
  • Decided to
    • 1. climb from Dhughla (4620 m) to Labouche (4900) tomorrow (29^th)
    • 2.  Climb to Base camp, then Gorakshep as planned on 30^th.
    • 3.  31^st plan to go ahead with Kala Patthar climb early (those who want) then descend to Periche for New Year’s Eve.
    • 4.  Then on 1^st, push down to Tengboche (past Pengboche)
    • 5.  Go on 2^nd to Maryo, below Namche
    • 6.  On 3^rd descend to Lukla in prep for flight on 4^th
  • spent evening filling water, playing cards and then went to bed early
  • Matt had much better night, less coughing

 Hike Day 11:  December 29^th, 2008 - photos

• Arose at 6:30
• breakfast at 7
• Matt, Taylor feeling better
• As we left, at 8am Buzz attempted to pet a Yak – got “horned” – nothing too serious
• Starting temps 30 degrees F – in sunshine
• PERFECT sunshine, no wind day – AWESOME!
• Steep climb up to Labouche Pass –
• Many memorial stone piles at pass to those who perished climbing surrounding peaks
• Continued to terminus of Khumbu glacier
• hiked to west edge, although Glacier was hidden by a ridge
• Arrived at Labouche early by 11am
• Decided to do a quick outing to see the glacier – Richard, Morgann, Dave
• Glacier nearly all melted, sort of disappointing, just large ravine of rock and soil debris,
  • some glacial remnants still visible – else receded as far up as we could see. 
  • Another high glacier to the west
  • hiked across valley to investigate
  • ended up in another glacial debris field
  • loose boulders and soil, very unstable
  • Good Analogy – how firm a foundation
  • with light step, HUGE boulders would shift and move, dangerous, unstable
  • had to quickly hop from the stones that moved (appeared firm, but no real foundation – no matter how massive they appeared)
  • used trek pole to “test the soil” and rocks
  • apparently solid ground gave way to slightest pressure, even if grasses growing on it
• returned
• Richard, Al set out on second walkabout came back cold at 3:30 or so
• sun down by 5:30
• Hung out in lodge
• played bridge hot seat
• 38 people in lodge – lots! in 20ft x 20 ft space
• Dinner at 6:30
• more cards
• early bedtime

 Hike Day 12:  December 30^th, 2008 - photos

• Labouche (4950 m) to Gorakshep (5170 m) to Everest Base Camp! (5364 m) and back to Gorakshep
• Decision by Al, Buss, Cam, Matt, Taylor (who threw up in night time) to return to Labouche after Base camp (attempt)
• Left at 7:30 – COLD! 15 degrees F
• Zac nauseous from acrid smoke in common room
• Al – severe Altitude Sickness symptoms
• Matt – still struggling to breathe (lung infection?)
• Taylor – nauseous from food, presumably
• All departed at 7:30 – within minutes Zac feet frozen, stopped and warmed up with Matt’s help
• Sun finally came out, Zac sped up
• Taylor and Cam sped ahead to front
• Dave stayed with Matt, Buzz, Al most of way
• Richard and Morgann in middle
• At Gorakshep by 10:15 to Buddha lodge
• Breakfast was pre-ordered, ate and then left toward base camp at 11:00
• Buzz feeling altitude, just stayed in Gorakshep.
• Matt, Al, Dave, Zac, Richard, Morgann, Taylor and Cam set out
• Cam & Taylor out ahead fast, got to Base Camp 1^st
• Richard, Morgann, Dave, Zac arrived next – on ridge overlooking camp area
• Al, Matt presumably turned back after seeing base camp from the ridge – symptoms heavy at altitude
• ‘Base Camp’ empty, off season, no tents etc.
  • just some prayer flags and some litter at the site
  • Everest not visible from site – too close to the mountain
  • best seen from ridge above camp site
• At camp site:
  • took pics
  • collected rocks
  • good overlook on glacial remnants below and Khumbu ice falls all above to east
  • Taylor and Cam bee-lined back to Al, Matt and Buzz, and set back toward Labouche
• Richard, Morgann, Dave and Zac set back to Gorakshep
• Dave, Zac and Shishir stopped on ridge over camp site:
  • built a ‘Chorten’ (really a rock pile memorial) to George and Carol Olmsted
  • left coin inside, within view of summit and base camp
  • Dave unfurled secret ‘confession of love’ banner for Angela near Olmsted chorten site
  • Zac took pics with Everest summit behind us
  • This site was highest point achieved by McIlleces on the climb, about 15 m above Base Camp, estimated at 5380 m (17,650 ft)
• Return to Gorakshep fast for Seiperts, miserable for Dave
  • cold wind blowing clouds up the valley as usual
  • started coughing fits, had to keep head down to block with w/hat
  • hold hankey to mouth to warm breath
  • just followed Zac’s feet
  • Zac led Dave down the mountain
• Arrive back at 3:45 pm
  • ate late lunch in ‘sun room’
  • sun set – instant heat loss
  • Hanged out in lodge
  • kids napped under blankets
  • dried out boots
  • chatted with Swedish couple, Australian woman
  • shared jerky, hot chocolate, gum with all
  • multinational crowd of about 25 persons
  • ate dinner 7 pm
  • went to bed after dinner
  • Richard taught cooks how to make PB&J!

 Hike Day 12:  Party 2 – Labouche to Gorakshep to Base Camp attempt – returned to…. Periche

• … upon arrival and breakfast at Gorakshep, set out for base camp, except for Buzz
• Matt turned back, suffering too much
• Al got within sight of base camp – turned around
• arrived just after Matt to Gorakshep at 1pm, told Buzz, Matt, Sherpa to leave for Labouche
• Al waited for Cam & Taylor – at 2 PM arrived at Gorakshep then left for Labouche
• All arrived at Labouche within 5 minutes of each other… 3:30 pm
• candy bars for lunch
• Gathered bags, packed, headed for Dughla by 3:45 pm
• Arrived Dughla 4:45 pm, sun up, weather ok, decided to press on to Periche
• Arrived Periche (4278 m) 6pm – 11 hours of hiking!
• All symptoms gone by 5 pm!
• Stayed at Himalayan Hotel – beds 1 ½ feet too short
• restaurant warm, food ok
• chatted w/Brit from Liverpool – walking 18 days straight, started in Jiri – SOLO (crazy!)
• went straight to bed
• Matt still ill, but slept well

 Hike Day 13:  December 31^st, 2008 - photos

• Richard awakens at 4am – hikes up Kala Patthar at 4:30 with Shishir
  • hikes in dark, couldn’t find trail – went straight up to 1^st bench – then found trail
  • Richard and Shishir on top by 5:45 AM
  • wind blowing 15-20 knots
  • estimated temp 10-15 degrees F without wind chill, with wind chill, maybe -15 degrees!
  • got great photos of surrounding peaks
• Dave, Zac, Morgann awake at 7
• radio call at 7:10
• back down by 7:15 arrived 7:45
• packed
• ate at 8:30 (slow kitchen!)
• left Gorakshep at 9:00 am (little before), sun shining, light wind, still cold at over 17,000 ft
• Cruising down hill
  • arrived, passed through Labouche about 10 am
  • passed through Dughla about 10:30
  • clouds came in, wind picked up – still cold, but spirits high, arrived at Periche by 12:15
• Met up with other party at White Yak Lodge
• Advance group stayed at Himalayan Hotel, ate breakfast 9:30
• played cards till 11 am
• asked for fire
• asked for fire again
• and again and again
• offered to gather Yak dung and do it yourself, NO GO!
• Al walked up to White Yak – followed card from porter
• Al checked rooms – good
• Asked will you make a fire? “Yes…”
• SOLD
• Met Richard, Dave, Zac, Morgann at White Yak just after noon
• Nice lodge, stereo, hardwood floors, shower, urinal, etc
• spent afternoon, evening playing cards and drying clothes
• Dave, Zac and Byrnes washed up head, face, hands
• Tried to talk White Yak owner into sleeping in restaurant owner into sleeping in restaurant – wanted 3000 NRS, “no thanks!”
• Happy New Year’s Eve – all tired, went to bed

 HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Hike Day 14:  January 1^st, 2009 - photos

• Periche (4278 m) to Namche Bazaar (3450 m)
• breakfast at 7am
• Up and out of White Yak at 8am
• Air temp 18 degrees F, very COLD first hour
• got sun by 9 AM
• sun gone by 10 AM
• COLDER, but very little wind
• whisk of snowfall
• lots of up & down
• saw musk deer just before Tengboche – AL took pics/video
• lunch in Tengboche 11:30
• wet, sweat-soaked, cold – no fire!
• Ate quick, pressed on –
• hiking down then back up – into clouds
• Arrived to Namche at 3:30 (Zac emergency potty stop in the woods)
• Dried socks, coats, sat around stove
• Taylor ate ½ mandarin orange…in 1 hour 15 minutes!
• called home, told them all okay
• tried to arrange early flight from Lukla – clouds cancelled all flights today
• still planning to press on to Lukla tomorrow
• ate dinner 7 pm, ate food brought from home: MREs, freeze-dried, Happy New Year’s feast
• Zac ate too much

 Hike Day 15:  January 2^nd, 2009 - photos

• Namche Bazaar (3450 m) to Lukla (2800 m)
• Up at 6:30
• breakfast at 7, oatmeal nasty
• start hike by 8 AM
• GOOD weather, clear, almost no wind
• Pushed hard all day
• 1^st group made Phakding by 11:45, decided to press on
• Al, Buzz behind about an hour, Matt, Cam variable
• Byrnes met up at Phakding about 12:30
• Seiperts, McIlleces pressed on to Lukla
• Taylor, Zac w/Dave arrived Lukla at 1:15
• Richard, Morgann right behind arrived by 1:30
• Ate lunch in Khumbu Resort (same as 1^st day)
• Cam arrived about 2:15
• Byrnes arrived at 3:30
• rested, ate
• got fire started after prodding
• Richard started un-braiding Morgann’s hair (starting 4pm into evening…)
• Played cards, dried feet
• Al went hippy with Morgann’s fake hair
• Cam sick after lunch, throwing up – not happy camper
• dinner at 7:30 – 8; celebrated with a Chocolate Cake…not bad tasting!
• Confirmed that we will fly tomorrow, 3^rd flight if weather good
• went to bed by 9

 Hike Day 16:  January 3^rd, 2009 - photos

• really “fly day” Lukla to Kathmandu
• up at 7, ready to go by 8, scheduled flight at 9am
• Weather perfect!
• planes slow departing from Kathmandu
• ate breakfast, waited
• 1^st planes arrived around 11am
• wave of 5 planes!
• video capture
• we enjoyed watching landings, takeoffs
• as 1^st wave left, we went to airport to check-in
• no security
• weighed bags
• COLD terminal!
• pictures with our porters
• helicopters came, refueled (cans) big gov’t chopper, rescued person?
• we flew out finally about 2pm
• Gorkha Air, although ticketed on Yeti
• Dornier 228 (not twin otter)
• just like arrival
• fun take off roll
• low flight over hills to Kathmandu
• Arrive about 2:45, luggage claim outside
• Pampha’s van picked us up – took to Thamal for lunch at Fire and Ice Pizza
• Hawaiian Pizza, Sprites, Cheese Bread…yeah!!!
• Then to Hotel Vaishali, check in, rooms bigger, but no hot water
• poor Zac – luke warm shower
• leaky bathroom floors, Seiperts too
• Wet carpet hallway
• Last straw…LEAVE!  Called Pampha – moving to Hyatt Regency
• We’ll pay the difference (~20 USD)
• Pampha met – we reloaded and drove HYATT AWESOME! Quick shower
• Out to dinner at LAZY GRINGO, Mexican – YUM!
• Pigged out, but no ice cream (or beer – sorry Byrnes)!
• Dropped Pampha off at her home – will return tomorrow for dinner!
• Back to Hyatt
• Zac and I checked out hotel quick
• Back to room – Zac to bed
• Dave stayed up washing laundry, pants, ‘black goo’ runoff, 30 minutes of scrubbing!
• Hung all to dry
• Sleep by 11:30 – had to call to silence Bollywood movie blaring next door
• Up 4x in night, nose dried out, stuffed, bleeding fast, once

 Hike Day 17:   January 4^th, 2009 - photos

• Kathmandu, Day 2
• Slept in till 8:30! YES!
• Call from Taylor – “we’re all down here…”
• Rose, bathed/showered, AWESOME!
• Breakfast at Café’ Buffet – AWESOME!
• Zac joined Taylor, Cam, Buzz, Al in Sauna, hot tub, etc. 
• pool hopping outside too
• Dave back to room to update notes
• plan to hit town at 11 am
• Went in taxis to thamel; shop, shop, shop
• Ate lunch at Krua Thai restaurant…good pad thai, but Byrne’s food Never came!!!  Bad Service…
• Finally delivered with much complaint
• Went across road to get Thai foot massage…and head, neck too.  All but Richard
• Loaded up in company van and off to Pampha’s home.
• Pampha treated to feast of takeout and home cooked chicken, lamb, etc.
• Met her family – husband is a very successful flooring and furniture businessman!
• Kids got along well with Pampha’s son and daughter…filled in ‘friends book’
• Power outage while there…VERY COLD in her home.  Most of us unprepared for temps
• Left and returned to hotel by 9:30 or so.  Back home to hit showers and baths
• Dave called Ange, asked for call-back.  Telecom lines terrible, but managed to chat for a while.
• Slept like rocks!

 Hike Day 18:   January 5^th, 2009 - photos

• Kathmandu to Delhi Return Day
• Arose and enjoyed Breakfast at Hotel
• Ended up paying for rooms…Pampha’s cash back used to pay airport fees (ridiculous scam by Nepali gov’t!) and Shishir/Mickey tips.  Worked out well
• Rode from Hotel to Fire and Ice for one last meal, most got ice cream – lots of it!
• Pampha left us with scarves and warm thank yous
• Dropped off Al and Buzz near embassy
• Seiperts, McIllece’s. Matt and Cam went to airport
• Fought the crowds, through security
• Richard is questioned…about his rocks!!
• “These are weapons” argument…Made Richard go below and place in checked baggage…inane! arbitrary! absurd!
• All made the flight – smooth, but bad food (that we had to buy!)
• Baggage made it fast
• Al and Buzz followed later
• Home by 5 PM!