Delhi Orientation Trip
Angela and I
just finished our first Olmsted Adventure to the country we will call home
for over two years - New Delhi, India. What an amazing, complicated, and at
times overwhelming place! This first visit to India was for orientation
purposes, and has not only been a rewarding cultural experience, but a
priceless source of critical information needed to prepare for life "over
there."
Follow the
links below regarding this trip’s highlights:
As an
introduction, and for future reference, I must explain how this trip was
conceived and arranged. We originally planned to move to India directly
from our pre-Olmsted assignment, targeting a November 2006 arrival. We
wanted this direct approach to maximize in-country culture and language
immersion. Since our selection we had made plans to come to India in late
Summer 06, and we quickly learned airline ticket prices were the limiting
factor. The $3k grant for this trip would almost certainly go entirely to
these tickets based upon early searches, but we persisted, and found a price
for mid to late Sept at about $830 each...sold. These dates were vetted
with our hosts (see below) and the organizations we wanted to visit (schools
and embassy support orgs), and we arranged our parents to fly out and watch
the kids. The plan seemed to come together smoothly. Then...
Just after this
purchase, our first of many "curves in the road" came along: our PCS plans
were not deemed supportable by the AF, and our language training approach
was changed to require a DLI tour in Wash DC before going to India. Our
arrival date in India moved from Nov 06 to Jan 07, to March 07, then finally
settled (at date of writing) to May 07. This trip could not be changed
without significant financial impact (non-refundable tickets to India), but
we pushed ahead anyway to make the most of it.
This trip
became quite an advanced visit due to these schedule slips. Although not
what we planned, we think now this was a great advantage and that we were
fortunate for the following reasons:
1. Go on
your orientation trip as soon as possible. We thought we would be best
served by trying to arrange housing, transportation, and the other logistics
of life on this trip - just a couple months from PCS. We now believe this
is not so. Those items can either be coordinated via email and phone, or
just worked upon arrival. The real value is being there, sampling your
environment, and talking to those who are in similar circumstances (and
taking notes, video, and photos for your own memory, for your kids, and for
your extended family). It will also be your first "taste" of the culture
and environment, and it will serve to better guide how you prepare both
personally and as a family. Go as early as you can coordinate your trip -
that is lesson #1.
2. For India,
consider going at the end or after Monsoon Season. This is nominally
from May to September, but was wrapping up in Mid Sept when we arrived. The
heat (combined with the humidity, dust, and odors) can be oppressive, and we
felt the temps moderate during our 2 week stay (mercifully). If you are
lucky enough to PCS direct to India, disregard this point...go when you
can. In either case - pack light. Light weight but modest clothes are best
- or just pack light. When you get here you can easily (and cheaply!)
outfit yourself with a few sets of Indian or Western style clothes that will
match climate.
3. Plan for
at least a 10 day stay - we stayed 13. It was 14 on paper, but one day
is lost just in time difference and jet lag. We packed
a lot into this trip, but we were not rushed and we had time to think about
things and experience things more thoroughly. You will likely have
appointments fall through
or other unforeseen conflicts that make a "tight schedule" unrealistic.
4.
Coordinate with a host scholar family if you can. Not all will have
this option, but many will be coming in where other scholars are finishing.
The Luthers,
Nathan and Heather, were our hosts and they were ideal for our
trip, graciously opening their home to us as our base of operations. Their
insights and lessons learned were pure gold, and our debt to them is great
both financially and in the wisdom and experiences they imparted. Living
out of a hotel is a far cry from living out of a home in the community, and
we were fortunate to see life much as it will be day-to-day.
5.
Coordinate visits to the University. I had several email exchanges with
Dr Sahni, the foreign student advisor (and Int'l Relations Professor) here
at JNU, and had arranged an informal visit with him on a Friday (half way
point of our trip). This first day was a no-show, and it was difficult to
communicate as not all my messages were replied to. If it weren't for
Nathan, who brought me along to his course lectures and showed me around
campus, I certainly would not have had
much exposure to JNU. To his credit, Dr Sahni was very busy (and well
traveled professor, visiting the US, Europe, or other Asian country to Int'l
Relations conferences, etc. - a very articulate and apparently well
connected professor), but he gave me good advice and support about
enrollment when we finally caught up to him. Just make sure you back up any
plan to expect a University "reception" with other approaches.
6. Do what you
can to coordinate informal visits to the DAO/Embassy. The DAO here
handles Olmsted Scholars for admin purposes, and meeting these folks is only
in your best interest. Keeping good relations with the DAO and State Dept
will go a long way for you and the scholars who follow you. For scholars
Chief Guillory is our primary POC. He is a great resource and is becoming
well versed in the nuances of Olmsted Scholars' needs in India. An
afternoon was all we spent at the DAO, but we visited with the Chief and LTC
White (our DAO-assigned sponsor). LTC White appeared to understand Olmsted
aims and was very supportive of us in general. Thanks to Heather Luther we
also got a quick walk-around the embassy compound so we knew what resources
were available there - some (like mail, medical office) very important.
Although we, like the Luthers, plan to steer clear of the "embassy crowd",
some interaction is inevitable and understanding this balance is important.
Perhaps the
most valuable aspect of our trip was to spend the entire time living more or
less like we would upon arrival. This was only possible because of Nathan
and Heather Luthers’ offer to have us stay in their home. We got to
experience firsthand what housing we can expect, and how a household runs in
Delhi. Each day we interacted with the hired household help (another topic
worth many pages), bought food at the corner
markets, rode the auto-rickshaws
and taxis, visited the bazaars, went to the bank/ATMs for money, got a
haircut, and walked the streets among
cows,
dogs, water
buffalo, cars, mopeds, crowds, etc. We got to see a few sights,
but we did not feel like your average tourists.
Housing
The Luther’s home is in a relatively
upscale part of Delhi called
Vasant Vihar,
and is maintained by the embassy housing pool. This provides a range of
amenities that any family would consider necessary for health and safety
reasons. Features such as water purification (using distillation), power
conditioning, transformation, and backup generation, air purifiers (Delhi is
quite polluted), adequate security features (including a night watchman),
air conditioning, utilities connections, etc. are all provided by the
housing service. The initial acquisition and monthly payment of rents is
also taken care of, which is a tremendous advantage considering the extreme
prices and complex dealings of real estate in Delhi.
Transportation
Generally the
most exciting part of the trip was just driving in Delhi. One has to
experience it to understand…by our standards it is sheer pandemonium. But
it is just another day for millions of Indians on anything that rolls –
nimble mopeds, huge lumbering busses, brand new cars, auto-rickshaws,
bike-rickshaws, ox- and donkey-pulled carts, Army trucks, delivery trucks,
cows, dogs, saddled horses, and an elephant. We saw Toyotas, Tatas, Marutis,
Hyundais, Chevys, Fords, and many other native and western brands driving
around. The noise of horns (used for communication, not anger) and engines,
the sometimes choking dust and exhaust pollution, and the ever-shifting and
sometimes assaulting odors made every outing both thrilling and exhausting.
Motor scooters
were everywhere, and we saw entire families riding on them. Several times
we saw Dad, Mom, baby in arms, 3 yr old on gas tank, and 5 yr old wedged
between the grown ups – all on one moped. Of course only Dad had a helmet,
if anyone at all. They weaved in traffic like something out of a Bond movie
(except only at 50 mph, not 100 mph), and Mom ALWAYS rode side-saddle on the
back (public modesty is still very important there).
Moped deliveries of McDonalds and
Domino’s Pizza were commonly spotted as were ads for many big multi-national
companies (Pepsi, TGI Fridays, Reebok, etc.)
We are likely
to either purchase a used vehicle or establish a long-term lease/rent
arrangement that includes a driver. We saw plusses and minuses to each
approach during our stay, and depending on where we live relative to JNU and
the kids’ school, we will pick a method. I hope to use
rickshaws each day for school transport,
a whopping 75 cents each way (30 to 40 Rupees), plus I can shoot the breeze in
Hindi with the driver!
Markets / Shopping
We were eager
to figure out where we would get food, clothing, and other common
consumables. We quickly learned how valuable your household staff is in
this regard. They will assist greatly in not only acquiring food from local
markets, but in preparing it daily. Our modern American food conveniences
(and sanitary standards!) just don’t exist in India, and so everything takes
time to select, clean, prepare, cook, and clean up.
We visited
several markets and bazaars (Vasant Lok,
Haus Kaus, Khan Market, Dilli Haat, etc), most with a mixture of shops
selling traditional and modern wares. There are a few stores we might
consider “supermarkets,” although more like a “super 7-11” in size and
selection. They are a sort of pricey by our standards, and stratospheric
for most Indians. Many great clothes options exist, but utility items (good
shoes or books, hardware, etc) are harder to find (No Walmarts here…yet).
Our approach
will likely be to primarily use the local methods of food preparation, both
to learn and to enjoy (the Luther’s cook was excellent!). We will probably
go to the high-end markets only on occasion for comfort items, etc.
Interviewing and hiring the right cook/housekeeper will be key to enjoying
this aspect of daily life.
Life on the streets of New Delhi
Poverty and
beggars are everywhere. It was hard to see it up close and personal, as
many disfigured and/or very young beggars would come right up to your car
window and ask for handouts or try to sell sundry items whenever you came to
a stop at lights, etc. Being obviously foreign makes you a frequented
target, so one must be firm in denials or be quickly overwhelmed (physically
and emotionally). India is still very much a third-world country and the
vast majority of Indians we saw were
living in
conditions of poverty. New Delhi was relatively neat and orderly
despite the choking dust, air pollution, and odors. Old Delhi was truly
overwhelming, as it added narrow streets,
spaghetti-like power lines, and hodge-podge structures to the
ailments of the rest of Delhi. We plan to participate in one of many
constructive relief organizations/programs when we arrive in hopes to make some
small difference, or at least feel like we are.
Cows Rule.
Quite literally they
roam the streets of Delhi
without a care in the world. They are sacred to Hindus and have become
accustomed to getting the right-of-way in traffic,
sleeping arrangements (anywhere), eating,
relieving themselves, and any other conceivable situation. Dogs are also
numerous inhabitants of the street, along with cats, monkeys, and the
occasional goat.
Speaking
Hindi. Because English is so common – and desirable – throughout India,
Hindi speaking will require some effort and outreach. One can get by OK
using English alone, but we found even rudimentary Hindi to be very useful
in giving and receiving clear communications with New Delhi-ans. The
attempts I made to speak it as we haggled over prices or ordered at
restaurants were appreciated by most Indians. We hope to improve our Hindi
through these interactions at home and abroad in Delhi.
Driving was
also an interesting window to the emerging middle class of India. We saw
thousands of brand new cars – most zippy little
compacts – with what we would think are average middle class folks
inside. Every one has a cell phone, and many wear very western-style
clothes. We watched a man on a new motorcycle dressed in nice business
clothes take off his helmet to
put his
hands-free earpiece on so he could chat on his “mobile”. Another
common sight was reference to the information- and internet- driven
economy. Old run down auto-rickshaws had various
.com advertisements
plastered all over them, many scrawled out by hand. After seeing an
impoverished bike-rickshaw driver hauling an overflowing load of sugar cane,
we saw another delivering a teetering stack of computer monitors. Poverty,
filth and extremity were still everywhere (seeing the shameless public
urination was a shocker) but standards of living seemed to be decent – and
improving – for many, even if in the minority.
Although
somewhat behind any modern US campus in terms of limited facilities and
resources, Jawaharlal Nehru University was an island of green, peace, and
quiet in the bustle of Delhi. It maintained guards at the gates (mostly to
keep Delhi traffic and riff-raff out) and had several “hostels” (on-campus
housing) for those fortunate enough to get in. It is one of the premier
liberal-arts schools of India, and my classroom experience was generally
positive. After sitting through one of his lectures on “cooperation under
anarchy,” I met with Dr Sahni, the Foreign Student Advisor. He was very
positive about the Olmsted Scholar Program, and advised I submit my
application early in order to have the best chances of achieving admission.
The department was going through a change of leadership which may make it
harder for a US military officer-student to get in, but he offered support
for my application.
We took an
impromptu tour of part of the campus with two of Nathan’s classmates,
Prashant and Vineet. We saw the library first, which was quite run-down by
western standards. The stacks were in a couple large rooms, some of the
only with air conditioning. Most of the library’s 10 floors were either
empty or full of old documents deteriorating in the heat and humidity. We
also wandered among the administration and housing/hostel units taking
pictures of flowers and seeking the wild peacocks that roam in the trees.
We ended up at the most popular hang-out spot, a rocky hilltop where a 360
degree view of the area was possible. We could make out the relatively flat
skyline of Delhi through the smog, and even spotted the ancient Qutb Minar
tower off to the south.
All over campus
are student-club posters and wall art depicting various messages of a
political nature. They were often quite elaborate and very left-leaning,
and they were constantly being replaced. It turns out they are produced by
a rather small minority of students in these organizations, most who are
preparing for a future in their affiliated political parties after
graduation. Most students are quite low-key about the political aspects of
campus life. I am excited to get involved in what I think will be a truly
mind-broadening experience on a campus that represents the diversity of
India.
We could also
call this the “awesome everything school” as Ange and I were very impressed
with the quality of programs, teachers, and facilities at AES. The student
advisor, Beth Miller-Manchester, gave us a great tour of the campus and let
us take video for the kids to see. They not only have a superb curriculum
meeting and exceeding US standards, they have a wide array of extra-curricular
activities involving Indian language and culture. Indian dance classes,
Hindi classes, and the “week without walls” program (culture/adventure
programs out in the community and outside Delhi) were exemplary. This was
important for us, as we want our kids to get immersion as much as possible.
This is the
historic site of India's first mosque founded by the Moghul Emperor
Qutbuddin Aibak towards the end of the 12th Century (1193 A.D.). Although
not an active mosque, it is famous for the massive stone tower that can be
seen for miles around Delhi. The site includes the remains of a mosque and
school, and was perhaps our favorite site visited in Delhi.
Follow the link
to see our array of photos from this site.
In the heart of
Old Delhi is India’s largest active mosque, Jama Masjid. It is within sight
of the Red Fort near the Chandi Chowk Bazaar. We had to pass through a
nightmare of traffic in Old Delhi to get there, and our visit was brief, but
our pictures are found on this link.
As the finale
of our visit we arranged a trip to the historic
British hill station town of Mussoorie. We had a long but fascinating drive through the countryside
north and east of Delhi, climbing from 700 to 7,000 ft in elevation.
We passed
through numerous towns filled with farmers and other agriculture workers.
There roads were busy the whole way, a bustle of busses, heavy trucks, ox
carts, rickshaws, mopeds, and the occasional elephant. We had repeated
white-knuckle moments as the traffic stakes were raised to about 75 mph!
The highway consisted of a simple divided road, one lane in each direction.
Passing vehicles and animals continuously, we quickly learned to get used to
near head-on collisions with busses, mopeds, and water buffaloes. Our
driver, Surendar, spoke little English (and only a bit more Hindi – Punjabi
was his primary language) so my basic Hindi came in handy as we made our way
through the states of Uttar Pradesh and Uttaranchal.
The poverty
persisted in these rural areas, but the land appeared fertile and crops
abundant. Upon reaching Dehra Dun we found a town full of the same bustle
as Delhi, including Toyota, Honda, Ford, and Chevy car dealerships! This
region was more forested, and was actually quite refreshing with cooler air
and less dust. Wild packs of monkeys were prevalent here, living on the
roadside eating whatever fell off or was tossed off the passing cars and
trucks.
Just north of
Dehra Dun we reached the Himalayan foothills and began our climb to
Mussoorie. Here the look and feel of India changed dramatically as we
climbed the lush mountain walls on S-curved roads. The air cooled and
cleared and we left the smog behind and below us. The views of the valleys
below and the towns on the mountain side were breathtaking. We stopped at a
Hindu Temple to rest on the way up, taking off our shoes and wandering
inside the courtyard where various religious and tourist-oriented jewelry
items were for sale.
We finished the
drive to Mussoorie and to our Hotel, the Jaypee Residency Manor. This is
one of the finer hotels in the area, a resort getaway for wealthy Indians
during the hot Monsoon season. We spent our time resting and reflecting on
our experiences during this stay, taking in spectacular views from the
courtyards and gardens atop the hotel.
