China
For Ange's version go to
July 2008
BEIJING AND GREAT WALL
Our great
opportunity to see the other Asian giant, China, finally arrived! After
several months of planning and coordinating with our China Scholar friends,
we packed up our bags and headed North and East…on Ethiopian Airlines?!
Well, it was the best deal on airfare, and with a troop of six, every penny
counts. Besides a very long morning of delays at Delhi International
Airport, the flight was quite smooth. The flight had originated in Addis
Ababa, and the stop in Delhi only saw about 8 of us get on board. After
about 6.5 of flight time, we arrived in Beijing – a very modern and clean
airport in comparison to those we’ve seen in South Asia.
Jade was
there to receive us as we left customs and baggage, and immediately made us
feel welcome to “her town.” She had arranged a driver with a large minivan
to pick us up and transport us around – a super idea that saved us a ton of
time during our stay. She took us to stay at her apartment, a very
comfortable flat in the Doncheng District northeast of downtown Beijing.
Jade and Jenn Hinkle (where the Littles from Nanjing stayed) were
instrumental in allowing us to have such a wonderful trip – without their
help we would never have been able to put it all together! After getting to
Jade’s, we eventually met up with Barry and Sara Little and their kids, and
we caught up over pizza at Jade’s apartment. Our plan was to start strong
the next day at the Great Wall, so we got to bed after spending some time
catching up with Jade.
“He who
has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man.” - Mao Zedong
Mao may
have overstated it a bit, but not much. This was a day that we will
remember the rest of our lives! We certainly got off to a great start on
our Chinese adventure at the Great Wall of China. The Great Wall was
originally started over 200 years before the birth of Christ, and stretches
over approximately 4,000 miles of China. We traveled about 70 km north of
Beijing and visited a spectacular section at Mitianyu, built in the 6th
Century A.D. during the Northern Qi Dynasty. It is very well preserved, and
the lush green growth of summer made the overall scene even more
breathtaking. Climbing the Great Wall is among those monumental life
experiences like seeing the Taj Mahal or the Pyramids of Egypt. Ange and I
had to pinch each other, we could hardly believe that we were actually
there. It is another testimony to me that the Lord knows our path and where
it will lead. I am very grateful to Him that we were able to experience it
together as a family.
It was no
cake-walk traversing the 8 kilometers (give or take) that we hiked, although
we were grateful to have a very convenient tram take us to the western end
of the Mitianyu segment. We pushed ourselves hard, since we knew this would
be our one and only day to see this modern wonder of the world. We made a
very steep climb up the eastern most portion of the Wall, beyond which was
an unpreserved section that forbid tourists. Barry and I went out a few
hundred yards further through the overgrown and crumbling section to get a
couple more pictures, but it was too dangerous for any others. After we
took a breather on the easternmost watchtower, we made our way back to the
east exit and a wheeled toboggan ride back down the hill. The kids loved it
(just like the old Alpine Slide back in Utah) despite the occasional yelling
by attendants to keep our speed down. Where’s the fun in that?!?
Photos of Great Wall
SUMMER PALACE AND
WANGFUJING STREET
After
buying some dried fruits and other snacks we headed back toward Beijing to
seek some lunch. We ended up going for the familiar, albeit not the
particularly culturally-unique cuisine – McDonalds. The kids begged and we
relented, and we were happy to get a burger (no matter the quality) and see
how this global brand tweaks itself to fit the Chinese consumer. With a
belly full of burgers and fries we kept on going back to town, taking a turn
to the west toward the scenic Summer Palace, built in the 18th
Century by the Qing Dynasty. When the Chinese Royals wanted to escape the
heat in the Forbidden City, they just went to the outskirts of town on the
shores of Kunming Lake. Surrounding the lake is a complex of beautiful
pagodas, halls, and palaces. Our visit was on a particularly hot day, and
the attraction of living by the lake was evident by the cool breeze that
came off the water. There were no crowds since we arrived after 4 PM, and
we enjoyed the long stroll along the lakeshore by the long corridor. The
architecture and detailed decoration of the structures was stunning. The
impressive Longevity Hill was dominated by a massive pagoda and covered with
a lush covering of trees. I liked the large Marble Boat located in the
royal marina – awesome craftsmanship, but practical it was not. After
rounding Longevity Hill, we exited the on the north through Suzhou Street, a
Venice-like waterfront street.
After
meeting back with Jade we went to dinner at a great Chinese dumpling
restaurant called Din Tai Fung. The kids loved the Chinese food (all except
Allison, that is) and it was fun to see them try out chopsticks! The
dumplings kept coming, and we kept eating them, and the company was even
better. I must say it is a very different language environment than we are
used to, and even in modern Beijing if you don’t speak Chinese you are
severely handicapped. Fortunately for us Jade, Barry, and Sara speak very
well and seem to have no problem getting everything handled with what sounds
to us to be excellent Chinese!
After
dinner we made our way in Taxis to Wangfujing Street, an awesome culinary
cultural experience! This was simply referred to as “bug street,” and it
was immediately apparent why. There were all kinds of critters available
for inspection, purchase, and consumption – not for the weak of stomach! We
strolled past the vendors and gawked at the gross array of insects,
arachnids, crustaceans, and other land and sea creatures for sale. Since we
had just eaten dinner, I was not itching to chomp a bug, but following
Barry’s lead, we settled on some scorpions and took the plunge. Barry
quickly munched the ominous-looking critter and reported “it tastes like
French fries!” I cowboyed-up and downed one too – not much to it since the
deep-frier makes it mostly crunch with minimal squish. To everybody’s
surprise, our 9 year old B stepped up and claimed she wanted to eat one
too. Just like that she did…munch! Hewr brother Z was not happy about
trying, but after watching your little sister do it, your courage somehow
becomes steeled. Then Mom felt the urge…to purge?!? Ange broke the mind
over matter barrier and consumed one too! In our home-grown vernacular,
she’s not “weak sauce!” We kept on walking, feeling proud of ourselves, and
made it to the end of the street just as the lights were going out. As a
final act of bravery, Sara decided to eat a sea urchin – in the spiny
shell. She reported a sea-water flavored snot with some sand added. Yum!
Unlike the often proscriptive Indians (as far as it comes to what they will
kill and eat), the Chinese take pride in consuming just about anything. The
pictures are proof!
TIANANMEN SQUARE AND FORBIDDEN CITY
The second
full day in Beijing started early with a trip to Tiananmen Square. We
approached from the west and headed to the Great Hall of the People
(somewhat equivalent to a parliament building for Mainland China) in hopes
of going inside. It was not open for visitors, so we took a couple snaps of
the outside and crossed over to the Square. The middle of the square is
dominated by Mao Zedong’s Mausoleum, as well as the prominent Monument to
the People’s Heroes. They are rather boxy constructions in the middle of an
otherwise grand and ancient series of gates that align with and lead into
the Forbidden City. The waiting line to go into the Mausoleum to see Mao’s
preserved body was long (as always), so we did not attempt to go inside.
But as we crossed the vast square toward the Forbidden City we negotiated
the purchase of a couple Mao watches. Mao’s hand waves in sync with the
ticking of the seconds-hand, and before your eyes your wrist is transformed
into a parade scene that would make any comrade pink with pride. It was
surreal to be walking through the square where the famous protests of 1989
were held, and where many lost their lives. We tried to identify the spot
where the man holding his groceries stopped the advancing army tanks, but we
had to surmise which street it was. Yet all around us were the blaring
signs of the consumerist market economy. China is an enigmatic mixture of
ideas and practices from modern and ancient societies. It is obvious that
the Socialist ideals of the state make room for the profit-oriented
practices of the market, and there appears to be no contradiction for the
throngs of Chinese who go about consuming, producing, buying, and selling
just like those in New York, London, Tokyo or Mumbai.
When we
approached the Tiananmen Gate that is the entry to the Forbidden City, we
walked under the massive portrait of Mao that has been hung to revere the
iconic leader (although it is very much an afterthought on the ornate gate
constructed by the Ming Dynasty in the 1420s). To each side are massive
Chinese characters that extol the virtue of the 10,000 year legacy of the
Chinese culture – a legacy Mao adopted to legitimize and glorify his own
empire. The Forbidden City was a vast complex of impressive buildings in a
very Spartan environment of rock, cement, and wood strucrures. There was no
plant life visible, and this was authentic to the way the imperial court was
set up – to remove places for assassins to hide (according to our guide).
This made the city seem very formal, unapproachable, even bleak.
I was
impressed by the contrast between the outward symbols of communism and the
obvious capitalism that coexisted in Beijing. In both Tiananmen and the
Forbidden City, the big brands of global capitalism were out in the open,
and the square was bustling with all sorts of people selling everything from
cheap watches to ice cream and cokes. The dress and accessories of the
Chinese people around us were just as they would be in Hong Kong, Bangkok,
or New York. Ads for Chinese and Western-branded goods lined the walls of
the underground pedestrian tunnels and adorned the busses and bus stops.
For the next two days we observed the very developed and very
consumer-oriented capital of China – something I was not fully prepared
for.
After lunch
(at KFC!) we enjoyed a foot massage at a very posh spa, and then we met up
with several scholars for a great dinner at a quaint little courtyard
restaurant. Phoenix Torrijos (Class of 08) joined the Littles, Jade, Jenn
Hinkle, and our family for a great meal under the clear evening sky. We
enjoyed some great food and then we wandered out into the very hip café
street scene near the restaurant. We passed many internet cafes that
blended the traditional tea shop with the modern wi-fi café, and they were
filled with young, successful Chinese. Spending time with other Olmsted
Scholars is always a highlight of every trip we take, and this evening was a
great chance to share our experiences and build understanding about the
country we were visiting.
Pictures of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN AND
ACROBATS
Our third
day in Beijing was an overcast but still warm day that we spent at the
historic Temple of Heaven. It is the Taoist temple complex where the
ancient emperors of China would make sacrifices and hold ceremonies to
secure blessings of a good harvest. It dates to the early 15th
Century, and it was very popular with the Chinese tourists as well as
Westerners. Like many historic sites in China, it had recently received a
facelift in preparation for the Olympics, and it was very impressive. We
picnicked on the grounds and let the kids run free for a while. Several
times older Chinese men and women would come to admire our relatively large
families. Often they would ask if all these children were ours, and when we
confirmed they were, they were delighted and would congratulate us on our
fortune and good blessings. The restrictions on children in China have left
many family trees stripped bare, with several generations standing on a
single child. With a one child policy, there are no brothers and sisters,
and hence no cousins or uncles. The genealogies become inverted over time
such that four grandparents share only one grandchild. In the extreme,
eight great grandparents would also have but one common great grandchild,
and if anything were to happen to that child before they married and had a
child of their own, and entire family tree would end. It is a sobering
thought, and it also creates a nation of “only children,” which certainly
puts tremendous pressure on individuals.
After the
Temple of Heaven, Jade led us to a more traditional section of Beijing – one
that is rapidly disappearing. The Qian Men sector is an example of what is
happening in urban China as the “out with the old, make room for the new” is
displacing the lower economic classes and destroying much of the history
that their communities embody. We wandered through areas of obvious
economic depression, with conditions that were similar to much of what we
observed in Indian Cities. Around these areas the construction is booming,
and the demolition of their traditional-yet-run-down homes was proceeding
steadily. They are among those who are missing out on the boom times in
China, and it is unclear where they will go and what they will do. We met
“Big Brother Liu,” a petty-cab driver that lived in a humble courtyard home
in Qian Men. Jade had met him many months earlier and had befriended him,
occasionally bringing him food or other items to help him and his family.
He was sensitive about receiving help, and when he found some money in the
bag Jade had left him, he chased us down and tried to give it back. The
notions of honor and saving face reign supreme in Chinese interpersonal
relations, and it was only after Jade gave a complex rationale of why this
money was not just charity but a belated gift for his child’s 100-day birth
celebration that he relented and kept the money. We also had some
interesting street conversations with the very humble but well informed
residents of the area about everything from the devaluation of the US dollar
(versus the RMB) and the war in Iraq. I also had a chance to try and
communicate with some Chinese men when I took some of our kids to rest in
the van that day. Without Barry, Sara, or Jade, I found that the language
barrier is very high, and as I tried to strike up a conversation about
languages and geography with our driver and another local, I had to resort
to writing on the concrete with a rock. The caveman drawings got some basic
ideas across, but I found out how important it is to speak at least some
Chinese if you ever have to get along in China.
That
evening, we made our way through the rain to a great place Jade arranged
where we ate true Peking Duck. It was very delicious, and the kids loved it
too! Then we made our way to a Chinese Acrobat show. We learned how
difficult it is to find a cab when it rains in Beijing, but some good ‘ole
capitalism came to the rescue. Enterprising Chinese have sensed this
supply-demand rift and they troll around in vans and cars offering to take
you to your destination at a significant premium. We gladly paid the 200%
premium to get our families out of the rain and into a rather nice Buick
Minivan, where we enjoyed a 20 min ride to the show. Capitalism to the
rescue! The acrobats were fantastic, although the show was very pricey
(more of those market forces at play, being in Beijing before the
Olympics). It is amazing what the human body can do –and what groups of
people can do – with intense training and determined focus.
Pictures of The Temple of Heaven
XIAN
Early the
next day we made our way back to the airport with the Littles for the next
big leg of our Trip to the city of Xian in Central China. Our trip out of
Beijing was fairly routine, made easy by the very modern and well-run
airport facilities. Once we arrived in Xian, we made our way to our hotel
and then headed out to see the large Bell Tower in the center of town.
Unfortunately the rain was quite heavy today, causing us to abandon our
plans to ride bikes on the scenic city walls. Instead of wandering outside,
we found ourselves in a huge shopping mall in search of a meal. We ended up
on the 9th floor of the mall in a Chinese food court where we
sampled some local food and the kids lived it up in some bumper cars!
Again, we were in the midst of super-consumerism, complete with stores like
Banana Republic, the Gap, and many others. The walls in the bumper car
corral were lined with Disney Characters, and besides the language and the
food on the menus, we may as well have been in Los Angeles!
After a
quick stop at Starbucks for the Littles, we were back outside in search of
some more traditional China, which we found in the old Shuyuan Xiang
shopping district. The old architecture was preserved in many of the shops,
and some very amazing sculpture and artwork was available for hefty sums.
We made our way through the shops to the Beilin Museum, also known as the
forest of Stelae Museum. Many ancient works were on display here, although
not all were climate controlled (still, much better preserved than what we
have seen in Indian museums!). Much of the artifacts were of Buddhist,
Taoist, and Confucian subject matter, with some Chinese imperial items mixed
in. The grounds were very beautiful, and it was a very picturesque.
After yet
another day of driving the kids around on foot like a herd of animals, we
retreated to the hotel to rest and enjoy…another foot rub! The weather was
still poor, so we enjoyed some down time that afternoon. Later we ventured
back out nearby to the Lao Sun Jia Restaurant, a famous traditional Muslim
cuisine restaurant nearby. Here we got a more traditional experience, and
the adults loved it although the kids had mixed reviews. After dinner Ange
went with some of the older kids to the local fish market to see the bizarre
array of living and recently killed things on display.
TERRACOTTA ARMY AND
HUAQING HOT SPRINGS
On the 15th
of June we made the big trip outside town to see the world-famous Terracotta
Army, or the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor Shi Huang Di. It dates back
to an amazing 210 B.C., although it was only discovered in 1974 by some
unsuspecting farmers who were digging a well. It was an amazing complex of
buried statues of warriors and horses (not of actual people) that were
buried with the first Qin Emperor to help him rule his subsequent empire in
the next life. The scale of these buried figures is huge, and there are
hundreds of chambers with thousands of figures of soldiers, horses, and
chariots of various kinds. Photos were difficult to take in the low light
conditions, but the kids really liked the spectacle and the imagination it
inspired. We learned that many of the chambers were left unopened, since
the archaeologists found that the original vibrant coloring of the figures
quickly faded when exposed to air and light. They are still researching how
to preserve the coloration of the artifacts, and the Chinese have obviously
invested heavily in intellectual and financial resources to protect this
showpiece of Chinese history. Even though we were run through a
tourist-trap shop outside the complex by our driver (typical for most big
attractions), I highly recommend any visit to China include this historic
location.
After
spending the morning at the Terracotta Warriors, we made our way to Huaqing
Hot Springs. For modern China history buffs, this was the place where
Chiang Kai-Shek was cornered and forced to make amends with his arch-rivals
the Communists in order to fight off the Japanese. The offices where he was
caught by surprise still bear the bullet holes where the tussle took place
and he was arrested. I had a rather nostalgic moment as I reflected on the
fact that George Olmsted had many dealings with Chiang Kia-Shek, and that he
(General Olmsted) very likely knew the places we were visiting.
We then
returned to Xian to get our bags and make the transfer to the train that
would take us back to Nanjing. The rains had become worse and we found
ourselves eating the pizzas we ordered (from Pizza Hut) under an overhang
outdoors (outside Starbucks, because the Pizza Hut was packed)! We managed
to make it back to get our stuff and catch our ride, but it was a hectic
afternoon. The train station was also very crowded, and we were loaded down
with bags and kids. But Sara Little found that we could wait in a
first-class lounge, and we avoided the literal crush of people waiting in
the main terminal.
The train
back to Nanjing was a great experience. After traveling on overnight trains
in Thailand and India, China rates quite high in this travel mode.
Although not exactly spotless, the rooms were reasonably clean, and the
trains certainly ran on time. The bedding was reasonable, and we enjoyed a
relaxing trip overnight to Nanjing. The kids in particular enjoyed the
train ride, and if time allows, I highly recommend overnight trains to get
between major cities in China.
Pictures of Xian
NANJING
We finally
arrived at the Little’s home on the morning of the 16th, and to a
well earned period of rest and recovery. Barry and Sara have a great home
in a very comfortable housing community that caters to wealthy Chinese and
Western expatriates. Their home was built to nearly US standards,
outfitted with all the typical conveniences. Some of the plumbing was not
quite installed correctly, and they used mosquito nets to protect against
bites, but there was little else that resembled the sort of infrastructure
problems that are the norm back in India. We were very much at ease with
our good friends, and they made us truly feel at home.
Nanjing is
a very historic city, having been the seat of Chinese Imperial power several
times over the millennia. It is also a very modern and relatively clean
city, at least the parts that we visited. Here we not only saw the typical
international corporate food chains, but also several large retail clothing,
food, and sporting good stores. They were modeled after American stores
like Costco, Walmart, and Best Buy, but with Chinese operation (and European
management ties we learned later). I thought it very telling that today’s
China is rapidly adopting a consumer lifestyle that we have in the U.S.,
although it is not as widespread…yet.
Besides
enjoying “being at home” with the Littles, we enjoyed seeing much of
historic Nanjing, including Chao Tien Gong Market, Ji Ming Si (Buddhist
monastery and pagoda complex), and the famous Nanjing City Walls and
Museum. Later on we saw even more of the great history in town (more on
that later). The kids also enjoyed swimming in the housing community pool,
and we enjoyed some great Chinese, Nepali, and German food. The best by far
was the authentic Chinese home-cooking made by the Little’s ayi Shou Li.
Besides a brief visit from the local police department (to register our
presence, a government requirement), we hardly knew we were in a communist
country – more so even than in Beijing! Much like Beijing and Xian, Nanjing
was bustling with shopping malls, US and European brand cars (Volkswagens
are everywhere, as are Buicks; Fords and Chevys very common), western
clothes and electronics. Chinese brands and traditional products were also
abundant, and a strong national pride was on display, mostly in the form of
large advertisements for Olympic athletes (and the products they were
endorsing!).
Pictures of Nanjing 1
TONGLI AND SHANGHAI
On the 19th
of June we spent the morning packing for our next trip to Suzhou, Tongli,
and Shanghai. We packed a smaller set of bags (we would return to the
Littles afterward) and made our way to the train station, where we boarded a
bullet train that was a near exact copy of that in Japan. It was a great
way to travel – smooth, clean, quiet, and fast! Suzhou was really just a
transfer point, because our real destination was the historical town of
Tongli with its water canals. Although the up front fee they charged just
to enter the town was a bit steep, we thoroughly enjoyed Tongli’s old-style
courtyard homes (our hotel was a wonderful converted courtyard residence),
shops, and canals with small gondolas to get around in. The food was good,
the atmosphere was authentically traditional Chinese, and the pace was
relaxed. We rented some bicycle rickshaws to pull us around town to the
various gardens, museums, and pagodas, although we only made it to two major
stops (we loved them so much we stayed too long!). The Pearl Pagoda Garden
was a hit with parents and kids alike with its traditional gardens and rock
formations, and the kids begged to jump in the giant plastic bubbles they
had on the loi pond. We relented and they loved being the center of
attention on the pond for 10 minutes.
Pictures of Tongli
After one
night in Tongli we were back to Suzhou where we split up from the Littles
and headed toward Shanghai (they had been there many times). Steve Smith (OSC
’06) – or “Smitty” as he is famously known, found us at the Shanghai train
station (after searching the entire terminal area). Thanks to Jade for
giving us her spare cell phone – it was a life saver in the confusion of the
big city! Shanghai was amazing! I don’t know if there is a larger, more
modern metropolis anywhere on earth. Smitty helped us get settled the first
night, then took us on a hike through the highlights of the city the next
morning. The heat was oppressive, and we felt like we might expire in the
heavy humidity – but we saw Shanghai in all its glory. After the ferry
crossing over the HuangPu River, we saw the Yuyuan Bazaar and Gardens, and
then went on to People’s Square. The vast scale of the city is
mind-blowing, and a trip to the Urban Planning Museum put it all in
perspective in a huge room with the entire city in miniature. Wow. After
that we took a stroll down the famous Nanjing Road (we’re still in
Shanghai!) with all the glitz of any high-end shopping district in New York
or Paris. We pleased the kids with lunch at Pizza Hut, and finished the
march back to the river along the famous Bund waterfront area (where the
Colonial British set up their trading docks and major Banks) and its amazing
view of the Pearl Tower across the river.
Shanghai
wore us out that day, but we did manage to do some shopping that night
before we crashed early to rest. I became ill that night, and my stomach
was upset for the next few days, but it was likely due to the extreme
exertions of the day. After a rough night, we went with the Smiths to
Church (they are LDS as are we), and we then went to see the rest of the
Shanghai scholars at the Kuehne’s Apartment complex. Tim set up a barbeque
for us and we caught up with them and got to know the Sullivans (Ryan and
Zarina) who were new Olmsted arrivals. As always, getting together with
fellow Olmsted Scholars is a highlight for us, and we talked about China,
India, and our impressions in these vibrant cultures.
Pictures of Shanghai
NANJING MARTYRS MEMORIAL
AND SUN YAT SEN
Smitty
helped us on Monday to get off on the right train for Nanjing, and we were
very grateful for the brief but eventful time we got to spend with the
Smiths. They are on their way out and back to the Air Force, and we are
very happy we had the chance to meet them and see Shanghai with them. Back
in Nanjing, we spent another three days getting rested and enjoying Nanjing
sights before the last leg of our trip. The kids really enjoyed the pool,
and the adults took the chance to have a day out without the kids (enjoyed
by all). We went to see the Yu Hua Tai or Rain Flower Terrace, which now
includes the Martyrs Memorial to those Chinese (communist) pioneers who
fought the Japanese and the Nationalists to bring about the modern Chinese
state. The Rain Flower Terrace’s fame was established long before the
turmoil of the 20th Century, as it was said that a monk named
Yunguang preached a sermon so beautifully that flowers fell from heaven and
turned into colorful stones – hence the rain flowers. Today the gardens are
filled with sculptures in dramatic, chiseled depictions in the form of
traditional Socialist realism. There was an interesting museum that honored
the many fallen individuals of the early Chinese Communist movement. It was
interesting to me that this monument to Communist ideals and revolutionary
struggle was well maintained and fairly well attended, but that all sorts of
souvenirs, food, ice cream, and soft drinks were being sold throughout. It
was obviously respected as a memorial, and a site of national pride, but it
never seemed like it was a temple to the ideals of Maoist ideology – at
least not by the way people were dressed, how they were acting, and what
they were doing. China as a whole seems to be much more interested in its
continuing development and economic growth than any honest attempt to
further the ideals of Marx or Mao. After the Martyr’s Memorial, we
journeyed to the old South Gate of the city, called Zhong Hua Men. Much of
the structure of the gate and its defenses is still intact, and an effort to
restore missing portions of the wall (thanks to the Japanese in WWII) was
under way.
The next
day (our last full day in Nanjing) we spent on the Zijin Shan (mountain)
where we visited the memorial to Sun Yat Sen, the father of modern China.
He is revered by Communists and Nationalists alike, and the ceiling of his
tomb vault was adorned with the blue and white star of the Chinese
Nationalists (surprising to me, but not a problem, apparently). He holds a
place of place in Chinese history akin to George Washington in the U.S.,
since it was he who organized the modern Chinese republic and ended the
reign of the historic imperial dynasties. Sun Yat Sen’s memorial is the
most visited site in China by the Chinese (even more that the Forbidden
City, apparently), and I thought it was an appropriate memorial to a man who
did not measure high in inches, but certainly did in his accomplishments.
The nearby Ming tombs were next on our list, and we got inside only to find
that a vast construction project was underway to renovate and improve the
site. It was a little disappointing, but it was good to see that China is
also making attempts to preserve its links to the past through the many
amazing structures that still stand from the era of the Dynasties of the
Middle Kingdom.
Pictures of Nanjing 2
GUILIN AND LI RIVER
CRUISE
Our final
leg of the journey commenced as we packed up all our baggage and, together
with the Littles, we all flew south to Guilin. This was our chance to get
away from “big city China” and see some of the countryside – although the
areas we visited were also heavily visited by tourists. Even in relatively
smaller cities like Guilin, the levels of development seemed very high. We
were not far from the earthquake stricken Sichuan province, but there was
little indication of any damage in this region. Our hotel in Guilin was
previously a Holiday Inn (unsure why it changed management), and it was very
clean and comfortable. Our itinerary started the morning after our late
evening arrival, and we all piled into a minibus arranged by Barry and Sara
to shuttle us around. We were also joined by Jade and a friend of hers,
Christine (AF friend from pilot training days).
We left
town and made our way to the Lijiang River (or Li River) where we boarded a
river cruise barge for our journey down to the town of Yangshuo. It was an
overcast and somewhat rainy day, but we soon discovered that this is one of
the most beautiful places on earth! The karst mountain formations were
shrouded by the mist and low clouds making it seem like a scene from another
world. The boat was a bit crowded with the armada of river craft, but it
was a minor detraction in such a stunning landscape. The food on the cruise
was not much to shout about, but we weren’t there for the food. We spend
most of the afternoon in great temperatures on the breezy deck taking in the
mountain views. This is a must-do for anyone coming to southern China!
Dragon Spine Photos
Our river
cruise ended at the town of Yangshuo, a somewhat touristed but very pleasant
town that offered great shopping deals and many nearby attractions. We
stayed in the Yangshuo Guifu Hotel, which was comfortable and offered both a
Western and a Chinese breakfast (we tried both – the Western was better).
The shopping district that lined the street from the pier was filled with
shops selling brand-name goods at decent prices (great if you bargained
hard), which mostly came from the nearby manufacturing centers of Guangzhou
(as far as we could tell). After doing some shopping we made the trip to
the famous Impressions of Liu Sanjie Night River Show. It was quite a
spectacle involving hundreds of participants, lasers, spotlights, smoke,
rafts, and electrically lit costumes that was performed on the water before
a crowd of thousands. The karst hills were lit up at times behind the river
and the whole event lasted about 1 ½ hours. It put some of the region’s
minority culture on display, and was put on by local amateur performers –
and impressive display of local talent and pride.
Li River Cruise Photos
MOON HILL, WATER CAVE,
AND CORMORANT FISHING
The next
day we decided to strike out of town and see some the surrounding
attractions. The first was the climb up Moon Hill, a natural karst arch
that afforded stunning views of the nearby hills from its perch. The climb
was hot and humid, and little old Chinese ladies followed us up the hill
trying to sell us cold sodas from their little coolers. They fought over us
at the top when we broke down and started buying Sprites, but B Little
managed to quiet them down. We saw some mountain climbers scaling the back
side of Moon Hill (turned out they were BYU grads from Utah just like us),
and we got some awesome family pictures from the lookout point there.
We then
followed this climb with a trip to the nearby “water caves,” this time only
with the older kids, B Little, and myself. There are touristy caves with
clear headroom and electric lighting available, but we wanted the
get-down-and-dirty experience that we heard only water cave can deliver.
Sure enough it was more of a “local” experience, as we made the 20 minute
drive in a small taxi that was literally falling apart (frame was cracked
and separating as we went over the bumpy road). To enter the cave we
boarded long, flat boats and floated in under a mere 24” clearance (watch
your head!). Once inside, we climbed through a fairly well preserved yet
natural cave that took us about an hour to complete. Part way through, we
came to their signature “mud bath,” or pool of natural mud, which was set up
to allow spelunkers to become completely chocolatized in the brown stuff.
The kids had a great time sliding down the rocks into the mud and becoming
completely glazed. There was a makeshift shower there, so we hosed off and
kept going once we had our fill. The older kids often said afterward this
was their favorite part of the trip!
Once we
made our way back to the hotel and cleaned up, we made our way back into the
shopping district to get some well-earned dinner and relaxation. Once we
had eaten, Ange took D on a little raft ride on the river (just right for
him), and B Little negotiated a great finish to the day – cormorant
fishing. This was an amazing example of symbiotic harmony with nature, as
these fishermen train their birds from birth to help them fish. We hired
some motorized rafts to follow and flank the main fishing boat just as the
sun had set and the river became dark. The fishing boat lit up the water
with three large lamps and slowly trolled up river. The cormorants were
trained to jump into the water and catch the fish attracted to the light.
Then the fisherman would scoop them up with a pole and bring them aboard
where they coughed up their fish (a string tied around the throat kept them
from swallowing completely – until the last catches, which were for the
birds). Then they were back in the water fishing and catching. These birds
were amazing in that they submerged and chased the fish underwater – a very
exciting process to watch! Once on shore, the fisherman let us hold the
cormorants on our arms. They were large birds with all the equipment to be
excellent fishers. Impressive!
Our last
day in Southern China was mostly a return drive to Guilin, with a stop at
the Elephant Hill in town. We made the mistake of paying the admission,
only to learn later that we can see the hill just fine from the public
sidewalk nearby! We then made our way to a nearby Sichuan restaurant for a
“last supper” with the Littles. The food was good, but not as good as the
memory of all the amazing things we had seen and done over the previous
three weeks! We owe a huge debt of gratitude to B and S Little, Jade, and
Smitty for all their work and preparation on our behalf.
After our
meal we made our way to the airport where we found our flight was cancelled
and rescheduled for later in the afternoon. We had to bid adieu to the
Littles (who were flying home to Nanjing) and wait for our flight to
Beijing. After the two hour terminal wait, we made it through security to
wait another couple hours for our departure. The flight to Beijing went
well (choppy as we flew through thunderstorms!), and we were met up by the
driver arranged by Jade. Jade brought us some fast food (again!) and we
were happy to be back were we started with time to prepare for our flight
back to Delhi.
Yangshou & Moon Hill Photos
LAST DAY IN BEIJING
Our last
day in Beijing was nearly full as we had time to kill during the day. Ange
and I walked down the street to the nearby Yashou Market, where we picked
some great gifts and last-minute items (a great market for clothes). We
spotted an Outback Steakhouse on our way there, so we decided to make it our
last beef meal that evening. The last treat was another 90 minute foot
massage for Ange and I, a great time for us to reflect on all we did as the
kids enjoyed hanging out at Jade’s that afternoon. Jade went to pick up her
husband Joe from the airport, and the timing worked out just right so we all
had lunch together at Outback! We really enjoyed getting to know Joe and
catching up a bit on what is happening in the Air Force. After dinner we
sadly gathered up our things and loaded for our airport trip. We bid
farewell to Jade and Joe and made our way to the airport. Our return to
India went quite well, and the food on Ethiopian Air was even better that on
our trip out! The kids were worn out, we were worn out, and we were both
sad to see it over and glad to be getting back to our home away from home in
Delhi.
To see all
of our China photos click here.
