Ange's Lessons Learned
or what I've spent hours (even days) researching, contacting, emailing or
just
plain bugging people to find out -- now to include some personal
experience.
What
to bring
Don't take this to mean you have to go out and buy all this stuff.
If you're like me, then you'd like to be a little bit prepared or at
least know what to expect. I've received feedback on this list and
updates will be noted. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but here
are things, that I've discovered either through my own efforts of by
asking lots of questions from those who know, to consider taking with
you to India and why:
·
Toilet Paper: they don't use it. They use their
left hands.
·
Deodorant: They don't use it, and what you find is
roll on or aerosol.
·
Feminine products: Tampons are difficult to find.
Period. ☺
·
Laundry detergent: it's fairly expensive.
·
Q-tips: If you use them...bring them.
·
Onion soup mix: Nice to have for recipes
· "Cream of" soups: Something the commissary has
been out of almost the whole time I've been here.
· Saltine crackers: I use them for recipes, haven't
found them in the local markets. A friend of mine without commissary
privileges is pregnant and would love to have some.
·
Brown sugar: What they have looks like sugar with
molasses mixed in--weird texture
·
Mattresses: Indian mattresses are hard as a rock!
That's a generalization--after our HHG arrived with severe water damage
we went looking for mattresses. We found some acceptable spring
mattresses that seemed soft enough, however when asking about a box
spring we received blank stares.
·
Bedding: Indian sheet sets do not have a "fitted"
sheet.
· Bake ware: If you have an American sized oven,
bring it, if you'll have an Indian sized oven, bring miniature sized
bake ware. They are small.
·
Food storage containers: a must!
· Children's toys: quality is lacking (like a dollar
store) and toys are mostly educational, not "fun". Consider planning
out birthdays and holiday purchases for your stay and pre-purchase and
ship large bulky toys, i.e. little tikes, play kitchens, riding toys,
etc.
· Shoes: After two months here, I have yet to find a
pair of shoes or sandals that I'd buy here that isn't over $100.
·
Basic medicines: The embassy clinic will have most
of what you need. Local pharmacies are not regulated by the FDA and
directions are lacking. Some drugs you can get in India are illegal in
the US. Besides, it would be nice to have some Imodium on hand when
Delhi Belly strikes.
Staff
While having staff may seem like a luxury, it actually requires a lot
of patience and information to have everything run smoothly--and even
that isn't a guarantee. After several months here I can see the benefit
of having staff and wouldn't like to try living without it, however, one
thing that requires the most adjustment for me is just having someone in
the house all the time. Privacy is a thing of the past. So far, my
help seems to respect my personal space, but there are times when I
would just like to sit on the couch and watch a movie, but find it hard
to justify doing that while they are vacuuming under my feet and doing
my laundry or slaving in the kitchen. (Sounds like a personal pride
thing to me). The AWA (American Women's Association) keeps a
domestic registry for those looking for work and those looking to hire.
Their registrants are screened. As an employer you are expected to
provide to your full-time employees, in addition to their monthly
salaries, health care, a "uniform" allowance--which is usually their
monthly salary each year, and bonuses for the major holiday of their
choosing and their annual review--both equal to one month's salary.
There are several different "kinds" of staff you may wish to hire:
·
Driver: Pretty much essential in Delhi as driving
is a white-knuckle experience. There are several ways to do this.
1.
Buy a car and hire a driver: This is what we are planning to do.
You own the car and pay the driver a monthly salary many times including
quarters. The driver is responsible to keep the car in proper running
condition including filling up with gas and maintenance, both of which
you pay for, and "petrol" is just as expensive here as it is in the US.
Prices will vary depending on the experience and language skills of the
driver and whether or not quarters are provided, but the average is
around 7000 rs ($180).
2.
Lease a car and driver: This is becoming more popular as there is
very little you are responsible for except the bill. One family I spoke
with pays $1000 a month for this.
3.
Use a taxi service regularly: You can work out rates with the
company and they will get to know your "routes." This works especially
well if you don't go very far or out very often.
·
Cook: Plans the meals and does the market
shopping, washes the fruits and vegetables (which is vital to your
health), cooks the meals, washes the dishes and cleans the kitchen. The
average rate for a cook is 6000 rs ($150).
·
Housekeeper: Cleans the house, runs errands, helps
cook, maybe even laundry, if no Dhobi is employed. The average rate for
a housekeeper is 5000 rs ($120).
·
Ayah: Nanny. Takes care of the children, mends
their clothes, cleans their rooms. The average rate for an ayah is 6000
($150).
·
Dhobi: Does the laundry, using your machines.
Washes, dries, folds, and irons. They usually come in once or twice a
week depending on the size of your household. Rates for dhobis would be
significantly less.
·
Mali: Gardener. Cares for lawn, shrubs, flowers,
(water & weed, etc.) Usually comes in for a hour a day. Average rate
is 800 rs ($19) a lot depends on the size of your yard and the number of
house plants you own.
· Sweeper: Sweeps the driveway and sidewalks, takes
away garbage, may wash patios. Average rate is 500 rs ($12)
· Guards/"chowkidar": If you are in Embassy provided
housing, this is a provided service. They guard your home from 8:30pm
until 6:30am. If you are not in Embassy provided housing then you are
probably working for a company that provides this for you. If you hire
one during the day yourself, it can cost 7000 rs ($170)
Health
There are numerous health risks and challenges associated with living
in India and Delhi in particular. Standards of sanitation and hygiene
are not what most Americans expect. The water is not safe to drink, and
has varying levels of fluoride, sometimes too much, sometimes not
enough. Mosquito-born illnesses are prevalent: Malaria--for which
there are preventative medicines to take, Japanese Encephalitis (see
immunizations) and Dengue Fever--for which there is no prevention except
repellent. Parasites are also a problem. Many crops are fertilized
with "night soil" (human waste) which is why proper food washing is so
vital. Rabies are also a concern as dogs, monkeys and other animals
roam freely. AIDS is also a growing problem for much of India. For
Delhi especially, air pollution is a significant problem. From my own
trip, I found I couldn't wear my contacts because the air was so bad.
And in the winter, many people burn garbage and cow patties to stay
warm. And although it should go without
saying...seatbelts are a necessity.
Immunizations
The immunizations we were required to get, at least by the Air Force
were:
Hepatitis A -- 2 in a
series 6-12 months apart
Japanese Encephalitis -- 3
doses
Tuberculosis skin test
Rabies -- 3 doses
Typhoid
Yellow Fever
Embassy provided housing
In Delhi, if you are on orders, you will need to use the Embassy
housing pool. This has advantages and disadvantages to it. The
disadvantage being that you will be bound by their rules and regulations
and will be less "on the economy" than your average Olmsted Scholar who
is blazing all his own trails. However, living in India is much more of
a cultural immersion than just about any other place in the world; and
even with Embassy housing, you will be hard pressed to escape Indian
culture even if you wanted too. That being said, the advantages of
staying in Embassy housing are many. Delhi is considered a furnished
post so most things are provided for those coming on orders; however
Olmsted Scholars are different and do not receive furnished housing.
They are allotted their full JTF (weight limit for HHG), and the embassy
will supply some other basics.
You will be provided with
the following necessities (probable but not guaranteed):
·
Air filters
·
Dehumidifiers
·
Vacuum
·
Refrigerator
·
Full size freezer
·
Washer/Dryer
·
Water distiller
·
a supply of transformers and power converters (power is
220V/50hrz)
·
Whole house generator
·
Power cleaner (to "clean" the electricity so as not to fry
all your electronics)
The Embassy also provides
night guards at all of it's properties.
Food
Ahhh, my favorite subject. I LOVE India food. But
do to the lack of sanitation and hygiene standards there are steps that
must be taken to prevent serious illness. Hand washing must be taken to
a whole new level, including educating your staff on proper habits.
Fruits and vegetables must be scrubbed and soaked for at least 20
minutes in a bleach solution. Never drink the water unless it's been
boiled, that includes ice cubes. Carbonated beverages are okay, as are
teas and coffees.
If we remember that 80% of India is Hindu, and doesn't eat beef (or
any meat if they are very devout); 15% is Muslim, and doesn't eat pork;
that leaves 5% of people who would consider eating a hamburger, steak,
pork chops or ribs. Needless to say, that kind of meat is either very
difficult to come by or very expensive. One market I went to actually
charged $35 for one pork chop. Even McDonalds didn't have any beef on
the menu. How about a Maharaja Mac? There is however, plenty of
chicken to go around.
Local milk
is also to be avoided as it isn't pasteurized. Most Westerners drink
bottled or boxed milk (long life milk). Cheese is also very
expensive.
